Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Jayhawkers
army's draft during the Civil War by hiding in the dense woods. Since
the folks here were mostly agricultural laborers, not plantation
owners, they didn't own slaves, and so regarded the Confederate cause
as a rich man's interest. I asked the shop owner at Honey Island,
Texas where that town's name came from. I had guessed that the name
meant they raise either honey bees or beautiful young women there, but
the shop owner told me that the name dates back to the Jayhawkers
(those hiding from the Confederate draft). There was a hollow old tree
in the town that friends and family of the Jayhawkers filled with food
each night, so that the Jayhawkers could survive their extended
hide-out in the Big Thicket. By day the Confederate army would burn
parts of the forest to route out draft dodgers, but the woods were too
vast, and the Jayhawkers held out till the war's end, finding
sustenance at Honey Island. Understandibly, the shop owner is very
proud of his ancestors' standing up for what they thought was right.
That's some American history that I had never known.
Pea soup fog
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Coldspring, Texas
baby David and his daddy after a huge and delicious breakfast of eggs
and pancakes. On his way to school, Seth then ferried me across town
so I could avoid the local construction, and deposited my bicycle and
I past the east end of College Station. Thank you, Seth and Janice! I
cycled on eastward to New Waverly, where I rejoined the proper
Southern Tier route. This section passed through the Sam Houston
national forest, lush with the foliage of tall pine forests on gently
rolling hills. The landscape is now truely that of the eastern USA,
and I've even seen logging trucks for the first time on this trip; the
desert southwest is behind me, so I might need to break out my rain
gear soon (I've been blessed with sun so far). One thing that I will
miss about central Texas is the plethora of butterflies that kept me
company while struggling over the steep hilly roads of that country.
However, the gentle hills of the east do make for easier cycling. I'm
now in the town of Coldspring, where the kind Indian innkeeper saw me
cycling toward town and knew that I'd be searching for lodging here,
so kept his last room for me before I had even asked. The food in his
apartment behind the lobby smelled really good; I miss all the
delicious Indian food of Kobe. Gerard, when we go to Kobe this winter,
I'll bring you to eat the best Indian food! Seth, you and David got
that song "the aunts go marching two by two..." stuck in my head, and
I've been cycling to it all day.
Monday, October 29, 2007
College Station, Texas
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Caldwell, Texas
many years will pass before we visit each other again. As he drove
back to Dallas, I cycled east to Bastrop, and then left the standard
bicycle route to head northeast toward Texas A&M University, where
tomorrow I will visit my friend Seth and his family. Once I left the
route, I was on a shoulderless highway with two lanes each way.
Surprisingly, all the motorists were very considerate, and gave me the
right lane all to myself. And to add topping to the cake, for the
final 14 miles before the shoulder, a concerned and kind police
officer followed behind me at speeds ranging from 5 to 20 mph, to keep
me safe! It doesn't get any better than that. I wanted to get a photo
with the kind officer, but he took off as soon as the shoulder
resumed. Nothing nurtures the traveler so well as does the kindness of
strangers! Now to do my laundry in the sink of my motel room here in
Caldwell, and tomorrow off to College Station.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Austin, Texas
Friday, October 26, 2007
To Bonnie and Al
ya'all's address? Thanks, Jeremy
Halfway!
about 1600 miles to go in either direction.
Austin, Texas
on the Blanco River. There was no rain in site, but my tent's rain fly
was all wet from condensation of the moisture I exhaled while
sleeping; it's amazing how much water we lose simply through
breathing. Packing up camp, I headed through the edge of the Hill
Country, where the hills were smaller, and the cycling easier (not to
mention the headwind had died down). The roads through ranch and farm
country and quaint towns were scenic, and the drivers courteous to me,
but the frequent roadkill tempered the pleasant day with the stench of
death; deer, skunks, squirrels, and even a porcurine met their sad
fates on these roads. I saw some deer dart across the road and they
just missed being hit; they were luckier than that dog that darted out
of its yard back in Arizona. Leaving the rural hills behind, my course
has now taken me into the heart of Austin, the political, educational,
and cultural capital of Texas. Cycling here has generally been easy,
thanks to a wide network of bike lanes, which I'm thankful for since
there is a lot of traffic here. Now I'm in a motel on I-35's motel
row, and will call it an early night. Tomorrow morning, my buddy Ivan
from my Jersey childhood will meet me here, and we will see the sights
of downtown Austin. He lives in Dallas now, so I've not seen him in a
few years; I'm psyched that I get to take a rest day and chill with
him!
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Guadalupe River, Texas Hill country
Disciples of Abraham
Texas Hill Country
Monday, October 22, 2007
International water resources
lying half in the US and half in Mexico. I don't know what kind of
water sharing agreement exists between the two countries to govern its
use. It also seems to be the boundary between desert to the west and
forest to the east.
Athena and Rog
Brackettville, Texas
Pecos River, Texas
Langtry, Texas
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Sanderson, Texas
Marathon, Texas
Friday, October 19, 2007
Repairs
Cruel history
Oct 19 McDonald Observatory, Davis Mountains, Texas
Oct 18 Davis Mountains, TX
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Kent, TX
stop west of Kent, my route will be heading off into the desert for a
few days. Today's riding has been very fast, pushed along by a strong
tailwind once again. I hope this wind keeps up! Paul is on the road
just ahead of or behind me, and hopefully we'll meet up again tonight,
as I feel safer when camping with another person than alone.
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Fort Hancock, TX
El Paso
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Twin cities of the border
second language of Japanese isn't coming in as useful as I'd like,
other than to yell "urasai!" at barking dogs. Of other interest, today
I met a very kind shopkeeper in a very small farm town near the Rio
Grande. He told me that he meets many Germans who pass by on the same
bicycle route, and that he'd like to visit that country, but that he's
afraid the folks over there wouldn't like Americans, because of World
War II. I was shocked to hear of such a thought, and I guess that's
why Mark Twain was so adamant to proclaim that "travel is fatal to
bigotry and ignorance" or something as such.
Pecans, too!
Her name is Rio...
New Mexico's Rio Grande valley
Monday, October 15, 2007
Oct 15 Caballo Reservoir, New Mexico
Oct 15 Emory pass, New Mexico
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Oct 14 continental divide on hwy 180 in New Mexico
Oct 14 border of Arizona and New Mexico
Oct 13 Gila Riuer Valley, Arizona
Friday, October 12, 2007
Oct 12 Superior, Arizona with Jeff and Gil
Oct 12 Globe, AZ
mostly-uphill ride over a 4600 foot pass to Globe. The roads were
narrow, and the residents here in the copper-mining town of Globe not
at all bike-friendly as they pass by in their fat pickup trucks, but
it was such a pleasure to cycle uphill while unloaded, and to have my
folks meet us every 20 miles or so to share snacks and juice! We're
all staying in a motel now and will eat dinner together soon.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Folks
my Mom's pasta and pancakes! I don't want to leave! So I will
rest here for a day. I've missed my folks a bunch while living in the
far-away lands of Japan and Hawai'i for the last four years.
Jeff will continue riding with me for the next three days, so we will
look for a beefier tire for him tomorrow. His road racing tires are
fast and light, but too easily punctured, as evidenced by his 13
punctures compared to my bike's 1 flat, as its deeper treads kept
those blowout wires from penetrating to the inside of the tire. But
the bright side is that Jeff and I have become very efficient at
patching flats; we'd make a good race crew.
Oct 10 Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 9 and 10 Arizona
for the fast haul down I-10 towards Phoenix. About halfway along,
Jeff's bicycle's rear tire flatted about 10 times, from the steel
belting of truck tire blowouts. We couldn't reach the freeway's rest
stop, so as darkness fell we set up camp in the desert, near an exit.
Next morning (today), we set off early, and flew the last 60 or so
miles to the western edge of the sprawling Phoenix valley, where
Jeff's tire flatted a few more times. After breaking a tube valve on
his second tube, he needed a new tube, but the local shop didn't have
one to fit his bike. Instead of scavenging my own bike's parts, my
Stepdad graciously picked us up and drove us to my folk's house in
Scottsdale, on the other side of the Phoenix metropolis. Tomorrow we
will get the parts Jeff needs to fix his bicycle.
Oct 10 Colorado River
Monday, October 8, 2007
Oct 8 Blythe, CA
grateful for the chance to shower and wash our clothes. And it will be
nice to sleep on real beds.
I also just noticed that my phone's picture mail is cutting off the
text I write for my log, so I want to tell Kory and Fatima thanks
again for being our support at our ride's start.
Added a year later: Also, my food poisoning finally worked its way out of my system, and I was healthy again! Yipee! Despite all the other obstacles I encountered from here on, the trip was superb after this point!
Oct 8 Blythe, CC
Oct 8 Palo Verde, CA
the staff and patrons wished us luck and safety, while I drank many
glasses of much-needed icy cranberry juice, and Jeff loaded up on
Pepsi.
Oct 8 Palo Verde, CA
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Oct 7 near Glamis, CA
Oct 7 Anza Borrego desert state park
Oct 6 Julian, CA
The vineyards continued, but it was a greuling next 40 miles, on each hill ascending hundreds of feet, only to lose that altitude before ascending the next hill, a task made even tougher by our load of 40 lbs or so, most of it water. After the rolling ended, we faced a final climb of 4200 feet up to the town of Julian. By day's end, we had covered only 60 miles, but we were exhausted by the climb, which we couldn't manage at anything faster than 5mph. But we had arrived. Kory and Fatima camdd to Julian to meet us for dinner. Then we all drove together to the campground 18 miles downhill to spend the night. Yes we cheated here! And were happy for such, as it was aleady too dark to manage the steep descent safely. The desert campsite was gloriously quiet, and the stars were beautiful.
I'm writing this sentence a year later, because I didn't want my Mom to worry during the bicycle trip, but I came down with a bad case of the runs and food poisoning during the first three days of the ride! Maybe it was from not having slept the night before (we drove through the night down to Kory's house in Cardiff), or maybe it was from something bad that I ate, but the entire three days, from the base of Julian, to the Arizona border in Blythe, were terribly uncomfortable. I had to stop once or twice an hour to use any bathroom, or to hide behind a tree, shrub, levee, or even a bale of hay and empty my bowels. Jeff understandably became irate at my having to stop so often, but しょうがない we had no choice. He also had to put up with the sulfur burps that accompanied the food poisoning. Poor Jeff, having to share a tent with me when such a horrid stench was coming from both ends! Nonetheless, we pushed on through it all.